MinwaxFast Drying Polyurethane Protective Wood Finish, Warm Satin, 1 Quart

I used this on some speakers I built, I had tried rustoleum first and it was kind of horrible. The minwax smoothed out so much better and dried fast as well.I ended up thinning it about 20% with acetone and just used a paper towel to wipe on thin coats after a few coats I hit it with a 800 grit scuff pad and added then wiped on a few more coats. Very smooth finish that looks great, the simplest thing I have ever done for a top/clear coat.I also have used the gloss and its great as well, I would recommend using the gloss on your first few coats as it is a little more clear and will make the wood grain pop more then use a scuff pad 800-1000 grit go with the wood grain gently, and apply your finally few coats of Satin.Satin is a little cloudy so if you add to many coats it will sort make the wood grain stand out less or have less of that holographic look as the light hits it still an amazing product overall and is what I will be using from now on.

Easy too apply, Great finish

It may seem strange to review an unopened product, but this specific formulation from Minwax, like a few others, is familiar. It seems difficult to avoid Minwax when finishing with stains or polyurethane. I’ve gone back to their aerosol and brush-on products again and again over decades. This quart will be laid on the very bench top on which it sat for its photo opp. I am not going to chase down every bit of green paint left over from sanding the atrocity left there by a previous owner of this house. So, unfortunately, the Minwax ability to protect wood will enshrine some of that ugly green paint for many years to come.

First a little background:For years, Behlen's Rockhard Tabletop Varnish was my go-to for bartops. It went on beautifully, dried hard as a rock in no time, and sanded nicely between coats. The resulting finish was completely bulletproof. It resisted all kinds of dings and dents and could be wiped down with Windex.Behlen's recently became part of Mohawk (maybe they always were; I don't know), but the Mohawk version is not the same product, not even close. On my latest project it never dried hard, so I scrubbed it off with mineral spirits. I tried an even thinner coat, using a paper towel, on another part of the project. The can says four hours to dust proof and fourteen to recoat. After twenty-four hours it was still tacky. My shop is warm and dry. Maybe it would have eventually dried. Who knows? But no varnish, no matter how good it's supposed to be, should be that unpredictable.So I ordered some Minwax oil-based poly from Amazon. I've been using Minwax water-based poly for a while and I've always been pleased with the results. Yes, Minwax products have a reputation as 'consumer-grade' finishes intended for 'amateurs,' but I find they are very reliable and predictable. It turns out oil-based poly is, too. I applied three coats with a soft brush and a steady hand (I have a spray setup but no booth, so I avoid spraying oil-based products because of the sticky overspray). It dries fast, smooth, and dust-free; it sanded well between coats; it looks warm and inviting, and it has no visible brush marks.Bottom line: I highly recommend Minwax fast-drying oil-based satin poly.

For the price this is great poly. I thinned by 20% and was able to wipe on brand new oak doors. Let dry , sand with 220, use sticky cloth to wipe clean and repair 3 + times until you have your desired finish. Expect MAJOR color change if this is going on light wood like white oak. It's Amber when done.

Price is better on Amazon. Love this for my refinishing business.

I use poly all the time. What I like about the Minwax is the degree of luster, it is fairly low. I used this for the first time on a pine farmhouse kitchen table top that I made and the finish is very low luster, really very pleasing. I have been using the same table for months and the finish is holding up very well.A few tips, make sure you stir it well, the ingredients that cause it to dry with a satin finish are are the bottom of the can, they must be mixed well to in order for the product to dry with the correct luster. That being said, do not shake this. This will cause tiny bubbles to form in the product that will effect the finish. To apply, I used a foam brush but you can also thin this 1:1 with mineral spirits and wipe it on with a lint free cloth.

Top brand my only choice